We hopped on a private bus that took us to Halong Bay and I couldn't have been happier. Pulling up to the dock you see small mountains rising out of the water in the distance and they only get more beautiful as you get closer. We spent the night on a boat, anchored in the water, surrounded by some of Mother Natures most beautiful artwork. During the day we were swimming and exploring the largest cave in the Bay. We ate fresh seafood - fish, prawns, squid and crab and marveled at our surroundings. We kayaked and watched floating markets pass by on boats, selling beer and crackers, cigarettes and batteries. What a beautiful change of pace from the busy, loud streets of Hanoi.
How much more beautiful this place would have been if you couldn't see trash floating out in the distance, discarded water bottles and plastic bags. Physical reminders of how many people have been here before us and disrespected the land. Our aina is precious and I hope the people visiting and living here realize that soon, before she disrespects us as we have her.
An overnight train took us 13 hours south, to the city of Hue. It was my first taste of colourful shopping, bright lanterns and the beautiful country that is Vietnam. We took a motorbike tour through the city, hopping on the back of a moped/motorcycle hybrid and exploring the countryside. We passed through rice fields and small towns, learned how rice was harvested, visited the tomb of one of Vietnams former emperors and got to see the tallest pagoda in the city, standing at 7 stories tall. We complained about the the heat and welcomed the rain with open arms. We learned about the importance of Feng Shui, ate fresh fruit, drank too much Vietnamese coffee and couldn't wait to see what else the city had to show us.
We visited the citadel, from which all of Vietnam was ruled from 1804 to 1945. Thirteen kings lived there in total, one of whom was only 7 years old when he began ruling the country. Moats surrounded the Imperial City and the Forbidden City. Once meant to keep out intruders, they are now home to giant lotus flowers and lily pads.
Incense sticks burn in homes, hotels and shops here. We got to see how they are made by hand. I learned that the devil can only go in a straight line and therefore barriers were built in front of the entrances to tombs to keep him out, food and offerings are left for the spirits so they do not enter your home and take from your kitchen and reincarnation is not just for animals and people, but for plants as well. What a beautiful culture.
Next we came to Hoi An, where I find myself now, sitting on our balcony and trying to figure out how I can spend the rest of my life traveling, learning, meeting new people, exploring new places, understanding how other cultures work.
Perhaps the most eye opening experience of the trip so far was yesterday, when we hopped on rented bikes and got to explore a large island off the coast of Hoi An, where people live simply, work extremely hard and are not used to seeing tourists. For four hours, we bicycled past rice fields, lakes, buffalo, chickens. We were welcomed into people's homes, where we saw how rice noodles are made by hand. The family wakes up at 3 am and works until noon, making fresh noodles and crispy rice cakes. We got to see how rice wine is made in another family's home. They had multiple pigs, a small daughter who was so excited to see us, and a heartbreaking past tracing back to the war. We learned how straw mats are made, from the cutting and drying of the grass to the actual production. Two ladies make 3 to 4 large mats a day, completely by hand in their humble home, with no air conditioning, and they do not complain. This was not a museum, this was not for show, this was real life. And today, as I enjoy technology, my breakfast buffet and my shopping options, they are still making noodles, rice wine and mats.
How lucky are we, to be blessed with jobs that offer steady pay, to live in a home with a bed, electricity and a telephone? How often do we take for granted the fact that someone else does our dirty work and we reap the benefits? Imagine your 9-year old son working in a restaurant, bussing tables. Your 8-year old sister selling lanterns on the street. Your 70-year old grandmother, harvesting rice in the fields. And we think our lives are tough.
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